Total-loss settlement calculator

Estimate how much money you might recover by negotiating your insurance company's total-loss offer. Free, instant, no signup.

The dollar amount your insurance company offered for your vehicle (before deductible).

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Your best estimate of what the vehicle is worth — based on local dealer asking prices for similar vehicles. Use Cars.com, Autotrader, or similar within 50-100 miles of your zip.

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Pull your VIN through NHTSA's free decoder. Count factory options that aren't listed in the insurer's report. Typical examples: premium audio, towing package, safety package, leather, sunroof.

Frequently asked questions

How accurate is the settlement calculator?
It's an educational estimate, not a prediction. The math errs on the conservative side. Real recovery depends on your policy language, state law, evidence quality, and adjuster discretion. For a precise estimate, upload your insurer's valuation report and we'll review it for free.
What counts as a 'missed factory option'?
Run your VIN through NHTSA's free vPIC decoder or pull a build sheet from the manufacturer. Compare the factory-equipped options to the options listed in the insurer's report. Common omissions: premium audio, towing package, safety package, leather, sunroof, navigation, trim-package upgrades.
Why does locality of comparables matter?
Vehicle prices vary 5-15% across regions, even within the same state. Insurance valuation tools should weight comparable vehicles within 50-100 miles of your zip. If most comparables are out-of-area, the calculation does not reflect your local replacement cost.
What is a 'typical negotiation discount'?
Some carriers — notably Allstate — apply a 5-7% deduction to comparable advertised prices, claiming real transactions close below sticker. The data supporting this discount is thin and not specific to your local market. It's frequently the largest single source of lowball.