What is SecondAppraisal?
SecondAppraisal appraises vehicles declared a total loss. An insurance company's first offer on a totaled vehicle is often lower than its true market value. We research comparable vehicles, review your car's condition from your photos, when you have them, and build a defensible valuation report. We are independent of every insurance company, and we are not affiliated with, endorsed by, or acting on behalf of any insurer. When you appoint us, we are your appraiser under the policy. The two appraisers decide the amount of loss on the evidence, and we keep you informed and consult you before an umpire is engaged. We're also happy to walk you through how it all works before you commit to anything, and that first conversation carries no obligation.
What do I need to get started, and can I start without the valuation report?
You'll need your insurance company's market valuation report (a PDF from providers like CCC ONE, Mitchell WorkCenter, or Audatex Autosource), your insurance information (company name, claim number, and adjuster contact if you have it), and basic details about your vehicle. You don't need all of it up front, though — during intake you can skip the report upload and create your consultation right away, then add the report later from your dashboard whenever it's ready.
Do I need an appraiser near me?
No. Our work is valuation research, built from your insurer's valuation report, your vehicle details and comparable listings from your own market, and, as your appraiser under your policy's appraisal clause, determining the amount of loss with your insurer's appraiser. There's no office visit: we work with you by phone, text, and online. We serve drivers in 42+ states; if your state requires a license we don't hold, we'll tell you in the free consultation, before you pay anything.
How does the process work, from start to finish?
It starts with a simple intake: upload your insurer's market valuation report, provide your insurance details, and create an account. From there, our appraiser, Jonathon A. Thomas, analyzes the report, researches comparable vehicles in your area, prepares a detailed valuation, and asks you to appoint us as your appraiser under your policy's appraisal clause. The insurance company then appoints its own appraiser, and he determines the amount of loss with that appraiser, including at the appraisal conference. Once the two agree on a new actual cash value, an appraisal award letter is sent to you and your carrier as the updated value for your settlement. After they receive it, request an updated total-loss settlement breakdown so you can confirm how the new value — plus taxes and fees, minus any deductible — produces your final payout. You can track every step from your dashboard, and we provide everything in writing.
How do I communicate with SecondAppraisal during my consultation?
Your consultation dashboard includes a built-in messaging system where you can send and receive messages from our team. You'll also find a Communications page that shows all your emails, texts, and notifications in one place. We'll notify you whenever there's an update. Plus you can always message or call Jane, our automated expert, at any time.
Where does my vehicle need to be, and what about an insurer field inspector?
Wherever it currently is — a body shop, a salvage yard, or your home all work fine. Our appraisal is based on documentation, photos, and comparable-market research, not a single in-person inspection, so the vehicle's location doesn't hold things up; just tell us where it is and whether access is limited. It's also routine for the insurer to send a third-party field inspector to photograph the vehicle and confirm its condition — that's harmless, it doesn't change your right to dispute the valuation, and it doesn't interfere with our work. One thing about the photos themselves: the only place we can pull photos for you automatically is a Copart or IAAI salvage auction, and only when you can give us the lot or stock number. If your vehicle is at a body shop, a tow yard, or your home, we can't retrieve photos from there — so the best move is to take the photos yourself, or have whoever can reach the vehicle (including the shop) take them, and upload them to your dashboard. Aim for the full set of about 21 angles; whatever you can get is better than nothing, and good photos are a big part of getting your valuation right.
What does it cost, when does the fee apply, and what is the pre-authorization?
Your appraisal consultation is free: we review your situation and tell you whether it's worth pursuing, usually within about four to six business hours. The Appointed Appraiser Service is $495. It includes the Appraisal Research, our appointment as your appraiser under your insurance policy's appraisal clause, determining the amount of loss with your insurer's appraiser, and the appraisal award letter. There's no upfront payment. After we review your consultation and agree to take it on, we place a pre-authorization on your card for the fee — a hold that confirms the card and reserves the amount, not a charge. You're billed once your consultation is complete. Our guarantee: At least $1,000 more, or your fee is waived. This applies once we accept your consultation and serve as your appraiser. The starting point is your insurer's offer on the day we accept. If the appraisal award, or a higher offer your insurer makes instead, is less than $1,000 above it, we waive our $495 Appointed Appraiser Service fee. If an umpire is needed, the umpire's fee is separate. Appraisal Research is $199: a written research report only. It doesn't appoint us as your appraiser. We offer it on its own in your consultation, when a research report is what you need. We accept common payment methods; if a card doesn't go through we'll let you know so you can update it, and we can still send your documents in writing in the meantime.
Watch the walkthrough: https://youtu.be/j-HxFx_khyA
How much more will I get, and what if you can't beat my offer?
Our clients' settlements came in $3,648 above the insurer's first offer, on average, before our fee. From 264 finished consultations that settled at or above the insurer's first offer, through September 25, 2026; past results, not a promise. We screen every consultation and only accept yours when we're confident the appraisal award will be at least $1,000 above the insurer's offer. Our guarantee: At least $1,000 more, or your fee is waived. This applies once we accept your consultation and serve as your appraiser. The starting point is your insurer's offer on the day we accept. If the appraisal award, or a higher offer your insurer makes instead, is less than $1,000 above it, we waive our $495 Appointed Appraiser Service fee. If an umpire is needed, the umpire's fee is separate. Even when the headline numbers look like a tie, the real math often favors you, because when the insurer pays a higher vehicle value the sales tax and licensing they pay on top scale up with it. In real examples, a Honda Civic whose offer matched our appraisal still left the owner about $1,440 more in the bank, and an appraisal that came in $100 below the offer still netted $661 more once tax and licensing leverage were applied. It's always worth running the real math.
Watch the walkthrough: https://youtu.be/VdXXuLJ8IkQ
When does the card pre-authorization hold release if I'm not charged?
The pre-authorization is a hold, not a charge — it confirms the card and reserves our $495 Appointed Appraiser Service fee, and you're only actually billed once your consultation is complete and the fee is owed. If your consultation ends without a charge (for example, the appraisal award is less than $1,000 above your insurer's offer, so we waive our fee under the guarantee), we release the hold on our side, and released holds typically clear from your account within a few business days. Even if a hold is never captured or released explicitly, card networks drop uncaptured authorizations automatically — usually in about 7 days, though the exact timing depends on your bank. If a hold seems stuck longer than that, contact support@secondappraisal.com and we'll sort it out.
If you only recover the $1,000 minimum, how much do I actually keep after your fee?
You're right to do that math. Our $1,000 minimum is measured against your insurer's offer on the day we accept your consultation, before our flat $495 fee — so if the award came in exactly that much above it, you'd keep about $505 of it. The full conditions: This applies once we accept your consultation and serve as your appraiser. The starting point is your insurer's offer on the day we accept. If the appraisal award, or a higher offer your insurer makes instead, is less than $1,000 above it, we waive our $495 Appointed Appraiser Service fee. If an umpire is needed, the umpire's fee is separate. We screen every consultation and only take it on when we're confident the award will clear that floor. Our clients' settlements came in $3,648 above the insurer's first offer, on average, before our fee. From 264 finished consultations that settled at or above the insurer's first offer, through September 25, 2026; past results, not a promise. Every consultation is different, which is exactly why we produce your free appraisal consultation first — it tells both of us where your consultation likely lands before you pay anything.
What is the Garage Hub Membership, and how do I use it if my car is totaled?
The Garage Hub Membership is a per-vehicle membership, paid monthly or yearly for each car you register by VIN; the current membership fee, and what paying yearly saves, is always on secondappraisal.com/membership. Each membership year it includes our Appointed Appraiser Service for that car, with the Appraisal Research — our regular $495 service — if it's declared a total loss. Losses on or after your eligible-from date, 30 days after your car is registered, are included. If a lender or GAP administrator arranged your membership, losses on or after the day the membership starts are included. It's a membership, not insurance: we never pay claims or guarantee a result. Your insurance company pays your settlement; we do the research and serve as your appraiser. If a registered car is totaled, sign in, open your Garage Hub, and choose "Start my member consultation" — we fill in the vehicle for you. On the payment step your membership is applied automatically by VIN, so there's nothing to pay, and if we don't have your date of loss yet we'll ask for it first. You can add another car, update your card, see invoices, or cancel at the end of the billing period from your Garage Hub.
How do I upload my insurance's valuation report, and why does it matter?
From your dashboard, open the upload task and add the PDF your insurer sent (often from CCC ONE, Mitchell, or Audatex). This report is the starting point for everything we do — it shows exactly which comparable vehicles and condition adjustments the insurer used, so we can find where they undervalued your car. If the in-browser upload gives you trouble, you can also email the file to support@secondappraisal.com and we'll attach it for you.
How do I send the appraiser-authorization, add my adjuster details, and what if the adjuster won't cooperate?
Your dashboard provides a ready-to-send appraiser-authorization that tells your insurer you've appointed us as your appraiser under your policy's appraisal clause. You send it yourself (or forward it to your adjuster), and it's usually the single most important step to move your consultation forward: it asks your insurer for its appraiser's name and contact details, and to keep copying you. First, add your insurance company, claim number, and adjuster's name and contact info on your dashboard so the authorization reaches the right people; the adjuster's email in particular lets it reach them directly. If your adjuster won't give you a direct email, try pressing 0 while on the phone or asking to escalate to a supervisor, or use the carrier's document-upload portal — we make it easy to copy and paste the exact message to upload. As a last resort you can mail a printed letter. And if an adjuster stalls or won't talk to us, that doesn't stop us: where your policy allows, the appraisal clause lets us compel an independent valuation, so just tell us what the adjuster has and hasn't done and we'll route around it.
How do I take and upload my vehicle photos?
From your dashboard you can upload photos directly in your browser, or we can text or email you a photo-upload link so you can shoot and submit from your phone. Good photos can be worth thousands of dollars in the appraisal, so it's worth taking the full set — about 21 photos — carefully. General tips: shoot in daylight, park on level ground if you safely can, get the whole vehicle in each exterior frame, and keep your hands steady so the images are sharp. Exterior (8 shots): a three-quarter angle from each corner (front-left, rear-left, rear-right, front-right), a full side view of each side, a straight-on rear, and a straight-on front with the bumper, grille, and headlights in frame. Under the hood: open it and photograph the engine bay from the front of the car. Doors: for each door (driver, front passenger, and the rears if present), take two shots — one at a 45° angle into the opening toward the front, and one straight into the cabin. Interior and odometer: open the trunk or hatch and shoot inside, photograph the odometer so the mileage is legible, and capture two full-cabin views — one from the front passenger seat looking back, one from the rear looking forward. If your car is at a Copart or IAAI salvage auction and you can give us the lot or stock number, we can often pull the photos directly — but anywhere else (a body shop, tow yard, or your home), you'll need to take and upload them yourself. Once you've taken the full set, send them in and your appraiser will use them to support your vehicle's full value.
Watch the walkthrough: https://youtu.be/eKeUmf1sMNo
Which receipts and recent maintenance add value, and how do I upload them?
Recent major work is one of the most common ways we increase a settlement, because the insurer's report often gives little or no credit for what you've put into the car. Upload the receipts to your dashboard and we'll use them as evidence in the appraisal. What to send: major mechanical work (engine or transmission work, head gaskets, timing belts, suspension rebuilds, comprehensive brakes), new tires, and aftermarket additions (wheels, audio, lift kits, towing packages, ceramic coatings, paint protection film, wraps, tint, performance parts, premium leather, roof racks, lighting, installed dash cams). A good rule of thumb: if it's bolted, stitched, sprayed, or wired in, lasts at least a year, and cost more than a couple hundred dollars, we want to see it — ideally as a dated receipt or invoice. What to skip: consumables you replace more than once a year — oil changes, wiper blades, air filters, washer fluid, brake pads alone, light bulbs. How much it's worth: we value each item at the time of loss using professional judgment rather than a flat rule. Newer items recover more (near-new components are often 50–75% recoverable) while older items depreciate over their realistic useful life — tires depreciate quickly, whereas a properly remanufactured transmission holds value much longer. If you don't have a receipt, the shop or retailer can usually look it up and email it.
Watch the walkthrough: https://youtu.be/lI7fgYjjTeY
How do I find my Copart or IAAI lot number (stock number)?
After a total loss, the insurance company usually tows your vehicle to a salvage yard run by either Copart or IAAI and parks it under a reference number — Copart calls it a lot number, IAAI calls it a stock number. You typically won't have that number yourself, but your insurance company does: call or message your adjuster and ask for the Copart lot number or IAAI stock number where your vehicle is being stored. Once you have it, pass it along to us — with that number we can usually pull the auction's photos of your vehicle automatically, so you don't have to take the 21 photos yourself. If your vehicle hasn't been towed to a Copart or IAAI yard (it's still at a body shop, a tow yard, or your home), there's no lot number to find — in that case, taking and uploading the photos yourself is the way to go.
How do you determine my vehicle's value?
Real, local market comparables drive value far more than a single book figure. We start from your insurer's market valuation report and run an NADA (J.D. Power) value as a sanity check, but those book tools don't always reflect what a comparable vehicle actually sells for in your area. So we pull real, recent comparable listings near you — matching trim, mileage, and options — and document condition and equipment differences to build an actual cash value we can defend in the appraisal. We also go and get the manufacturer's original Monroney label to verify the features on your vehicle and compare them to comparables. The range we show you runs from our most conservative comparable up to the average of the comparables we selected (plus any add-ons like recent maintenance): the low end is intentionally cautious, and the high end is the average market value we believe we can support. We generally won't recommend moving forward unless we see a strong chance of creating meaningful additional value, and we always pursue the highest fair value the evidence supports.
What's the difference between ACV and my total settlement, and why is the headline number misleading?
ACV (actual cash value) is the insurer's figure for what your vehicle itself is worth — and it's not the same as your total settlement. In most states the insurer owes you the ACV plus the sales tax and title/registration fees you'd pay to replace the vehicle, added on top, then minus your deductible when it applies. So a headline settlement figure can be misleading: a $16,500 offer might actually break down to roughly $15,130 in vehicle value, about $1,120 in tax, $250 in title and licensing, and a $500 deductible — meaning a big chunk is earmarked for taxes and DMV fees you'll owe when you replace the car. That's also why our appraisal focuses on ACV: it's the figure that drives everything else. The exact tax-and-fee rules vary by state and policy, so we confirm what applies to your claim.
Can I keep my totaled vehicle, and is the salvage buyback price fixed?
Usually yes. If you want to keep your totaled vehicle, the insurer deducts the salvage (buyback) value from your settlement and you retain the car with a salvage title. That buyback amount isn't fixed — as a rough rule of thumb it often lands around 20 cents on the dollar of the vehicle's value, so if a quote looks high it's worth pushing back or asking for the carrier's salvage source. Getting the figure right matters, because an inflated salvage value quietly lowers your net payout. Tell us if you're considering keeping the vehicle and we'll sanity-check the number against the actual cash value and factor it into the appraisal so you're not overpaying to retain your car.
How long does the whole process — and the appraisal clause — take?
Our valuation report is typically ready within 24 hours of receiving your insurer's report and your vehicle details. From there it depends on how responsive your insurer is: it can take up to a few weeks, but it usually resolves in just a few days. Disputed consultations can run 30–60 days — that's roughly the worst case, the most an insurer can drag it out before violating their own clause. Once you appoint us under the appraisal clause, determining the amount of loss with the other appraiser follows the same shape — it can take up to a few weeks but usually resolves in a few days. How long the appraisal takes depends on the insurance company's appointed appraiser and, if one is needed, the umpire. We push to keep things on the faster end, and your dashboard tracks progress through every phase.
Why didn't my value change after my call?
Your value isn't updated live during the call. After we talk, our appraiser, Jonathon A. Thomas, reviews your consultation and finalizes the valuation — typically within 48–72 business hours. Nothing is lost from your call; the number on your dashboard updates once that review is complete, and we'll email you the moment your report is ready.
What is the appraisal clause (right to appraisal)?
Most US auto insurance policies include an appraisal clause — a built-in way to settle a disagreement over how much your loss is worth. If you and your insurer can't agree on the vehicle's value, either side can demand an appraisal. Each side hires and pays for its own appraiser; once the two appraisers agree on a number, the appraisal clause makes that number binding on you AND the insurance company — you don't have to approve it separately, but we keep you in the loop along the way, and the binding number settles value only (not fault or coverage). In the rare event the appraisers can't agree, they bring in a neutral umpire to decide, and the two sides split the umpire's cost equally (this is extremely rare but even when it happens it's generally only a few hundred dollars). Not every policy has an appraisal clause, so we'll help you determine whether it applies to you. This is also where our guarantee comes in: At least $1,000 more, or your fee is waived. This applies once we accept your consultation and serve as your appraiser. The starting point is your insurer's offer on the day we accept. If the appraisal award, or a higher offer your insurer makes instead, is less than $1,000 above it, we waive our $495 Appointed Appraiser Service fee. If an umpire is needed, the umpire's fee is separate.
How do I invoke the appraisal clause, and how does it work?
The fastest way to invoke it is to email your claim representative, which counts as 'in writing' under almost every policy. State clearly: 'Pursuant to the appraisal clause of my policy, I am invoking my right to an appraisal of the loss,' and include our details — SecondAppraisal Inc, Jonathon A. Thomas, support@secondappraisal.com, (385) 218-6712. The clock starts when they receive it; if you don't hear back in a few days, follow up with a certified letter. The insurer then typically has up to 20 days to name their appraiser, though they usually do it within a few. As your appraiser, we pull the comparable sales, document your vehicle's condition, draft the invocation, and work directly with the insurer's appraiser — about 95% of the time the two professionals reach a number on their own, with no judge, jury, or lawyers involved, and only if they can't does a neutral umpire break the tie. Appraisal procedures and policy language vary by state, so this is general information rather than legal advice; always check the specific terms of your policy.
Watch the walkthrough: https://youtu.be/j-HxFx_khyA
Should I file through my own insurance or the at-fault driver's?
Which path you choose matters. Filing through the at-fault driver's insurer is a claim under their policy, so your own policy's appraisal clause doesn't apply to it. Filing through your own insurance is a claim under your own policy, so its appraisal clause, if it has one, applies. If your dashboard suggests filing through your own insurance, it's because in your state that's the path that lets us serve as your appraiser; just open your claim and follow the few-minute walkthrough. When the other driver was at fault, you typically pay your deductible up front and your insurer seeks it back from theirs (the rates-and-deductible answer explains how and when). Which path to take is your decision. This is general information, not legal advice — rules vary by state and insurer, so a quick check with your own carrier is always worth it.
Watch the walkthrough: https://youtu.be/Pw6cFeZ2dkM
Will filing or an appraisal raise my rates, and do I get my deductible back?
Two common worries, and the news is mostly good when you're not at fault. Rates: surcharges are generally for accidents you cause, not the ones you don't, so a clearly not-at-fault claim usually shouldn't move your premium — and several states (including California, Colorado, Georgia, Louisiana, and Tennessee) prohibit raising your rate for a not-at-fault accident. Disputing the value of an already-filed claim, through an appraisal or otherwise, doesn't by itself raise rates either. Deductible: if you file through your own insurer you typically pay it up front, but you don't end up eating it when the other driver was at fault — your carrier pursues the at-fault insurer through subrogation and, in many states, must return that money to you before keeping anything. It can take a few weeks to come back, and if you were partly at fault you'll get your share rather than the full amount. If you file directly through the at-fault carrier, a deductible usually doesn't apply at all. Rules vary by carrier and state, so confirm the specifics with your insurer.
Watch the walkthrough: https://youtu.be/Pw6cFeZ2dkM
What does an umpire cost, and how often is one actually needed?
Rarely — and when it does happen, it's not expensive. In an appraisal, the two appraisers work to determine the amount of loss first, and about 95% of the time they reach a number on their own. Only when they genuinely can't agree does a neutral umpire come in to break the tie, so most consultations never involve one. If an umpire is needed, the two sides split the umpire's fee equally, and your share is generally only a few hundred dollars — typically still small compared to the increase we're pursuing. Our guarantee covers our fee, not the umpire's: At least $1,000 more, or your fee is waived. This applies once we accept your consultation and serve as your appraiser. The starting point is your insurer's offer on the day we accept. If the appraisal award, or a higher offer your insurer makes instead, is less than $1,000 above it, we waive our $495 Appointed Appraiser Service fee. If an umpire is needed, the umpire's fee is separate. Umpire procedures vary a little by state and policy, so we'll walk you through the specifics if your consultation ever gets that far.
Should I sign up with SecondAppraisal first, or invoke the appraisal clause first?
Sign up first — invoking comes later, and only if the numbers justify it. Here's the order that protects you: (1) Upload your insurer's market valuation report and your vehicle details — this part is free. (2) Our appraiser, Jonathon A. Thomas, prepares your free appraisal consultation showing what your vehicle is really worth and how much more we believe we can get you. (3) Only if that upside is real do you invoke the appraisal clause and appoint us as your appraiser — we give you a ready-to-send email that does both at once. Invoking before you know the numbers starts the policy's clocks and locks you into the formal process before you know it's worth it; doing the free review first means you invoke from a position of strength, with your appraiser already armed with the data. If you've already invoked on your own, don't worry — we can still step in as your appraiser; just sign up and let us know where things stand.
Who handles my consultation, and what are their qualifications?
Jonathon A. Thomas, our Chief Operating Officer, personally runs every consultation at SecondAppraisal. He brings over 13 years of total-loss, liability, and damages experience, and holds the CPCU and AIDA professional designations and a Master of Science in Finance. Jonathon A. Thomas holds motor vehicle damage appraiser licenses in Connecticut, North Carolina and South Carolina, and an Oregon Vehicle Appraiser Certificate. SecondAppraisal Inc holds a Connecticut motor vehicle damage appraiser license (MVPD Appraiser, #3004387010). He's joined by CEO Ken Davis, who applies decades of software and technology experience to modernize how owners navigate total-loss claims. SecondAppraisal Inc is the rebrand of KEH Consultants LLC — he handled most KEH consultations and still personally handles every one here — and existing KEH clients have their account history carried over automatically.
Do you handle classic, specialty, or heavily customized vehicles?
Those fall outside our usual wheelhouse. Standard total-loss appraisals on regular, mainstream-market vehicles are where we deliver the most value. For a classic, exotic, or heavily customized vehicle, a specialty appraiser is usually a better fit, and we're happy to point you in that direction. If you're not sure whether your vehicle counts as standard-market, just give us a quick description and we'll let you know.
Is SecondAppraisal legitimate? How do I verify you?
Completely fair question — here's what you can verify yourself. SecondAppraisal Inc is owned and run by Jonathon A. Thomas, who personally handles every consultation and holds the CPCU and AIDA professional designations. You can read our Google reviews from customers we've helped — ask Jane to text or email you the link, or search "SecondAppraisal Inc" on Google Maps. Everything happens inside your secure dashboard where you can see your documents, messages, and progress at any time. And two things we will never do: we never ask for payment information over the phone (card pre-authorization happens only through a secure link in your dashboard), and you're never charged our flat $495 fee until after we deliver. If you'd rather hear it from a person, a member of our team is happy to message or call you.
Is my information secure?
Yes. We use secure authentication (Google Sign-In, Apple Sign-In, and email or phone one-time passwords), transmit all data over encrypted connections, and follow industry best practices for protecting your personal and claim information.
How do I contact support?
Email support@secondappraisal.com or text (385) 218-6712. During your consultation, the dashboard messaging system is the fastest way to reach our team.
What are your hours, and do you speak Spanish?
Real people are here 7 a.m.–7 p.m. Mountain, 7 days a week, and se habla español. Outside those hours, Jane, our AI assistant, can help in 97 languages, and we follow up when we're back.
Can you handle my whole claim?
No. Your insurance claim stays between you and your insurance company. When you appoint us, we are your appraiser under the policy. The two appraisers decide the amount of loss on the evidence, and we keep you informed and consult you before an umpire is engaged. If you want help with the rest of your insurance claim, a licensed public adjuster or an attorney can help. We don't name or recommend anyone.